The first night in Portland has been restful There is a convention of WWII naval veterans from the USS Strong staying with us at Portland's Wyndham Towers. Unlike the raucous group we encountered the last time we were here, these are pretty quiet and well behaved. The men open car doors for their women and stand around attentively. But we have things to eat and places to go. We pack up and head back into downtown Portland in search of breakfast.
A blog we had read earlier exclaiming the virtues of donuts was a beacon, summoning us to Holy Donuts on Middle Street. Since it was right next to Duckfat restaurant, we knew exactly how to get there! According to J2 who is known far and wide for her total and unwavering devotion to extremely good coffee (and that is putting it mildly), they had acceptably good coffee. One hurdle over, we proceeded to the donut offerings. Please visit the original blog for excellent pictures of the donut choices. There were four types available that morning: Bacon and Cheddar; Maine Potato; Potato and Ginger; Chocolate; and one with Coconut flakes (which neither of us even considered). Cheese and Bacon – although not technically a donut but a fritter was delicious (what’s there not to be delicious about fat and more fat fried in fat?) – I scarfed down two. One each of Chocolate and Maine Potato and we were ready to move on to the next culinary bait in Portland. Our current assessment of Holy Donuts? Good – but Portland still needs a donut shop that makes outstanding donuts - and we can wait.
Having a deep unsated need for breakfast, we proceeded to our very favorite (and of many other chow hounds) bakery – The Standard Baking Company. We bagged one of their TDF financiers and a croissant and were on our way to Down East. It was coincidental that I ran into Tak – the owner of Yosaku Japanese Restaurant at the other end of town – and he had come in for a bite it seems. Of course, I had no choice but to wolf down the immensely wonderful almond croissant in the parking lot - yummmmmm.
And off to Lubec - taking the (long and) scenic route through Bangor.
A couple of hours into the trip, we were both feeling peckish again and stopped at the visitor's information center just outside Bangor. The gentleman at the information center indicated that there was an excellent Pakistani restaurant in town - and that he enjoyed the food. So we went in search. Who would have known that there was a sufficient population in Bangor to support a Pakistani restaurant? We got to Bangor and the restaurant was closed - as luck would have it - probably Ramadan. So we walked around inspecting the alternatives. I liked the look of the small counter-style Mexican restaurant and J2 was thrilled with the Franciscan Friar's Bakehouse, their bread and their beef barley soup.
I ordered the grilled cheese sandwich. The bread was heavenly. Indoor photographs were not allowed so I have none to share but here is what the outside looks like.
By the time we finished our lunch, it was pouring outside so we made our way quickly to the Italian deli around the corner and on the way back to our car. The espresso was delightful there. We got to our car soaked and ate the freshly filled cannolo and a piece of the previously purchased financier and praised the lord for such abundant delicacies.... and then onward.
Note the storage under the bed.
Since the town closed early, and it was getting late, we went to a local pub for dinner. After being set up to expect Franks and Beans for dinner, I was sorely disappointed to find none in this Maine town! Janet tried the yankee-sounding bean soup which was laced with ... of all things .... cumin (ugh) and I had the safer but rather oversalted grilled steak and a couple of beers. After another exploratory walk which included talking with the very friendly Customs Officer, and walking halfway on the bridge to Canada, we decided to call it a day and headed "home".
And off to Lubec - taking the (long and) scenic route through Bangor.
A couple of hours into the trip, we were both feeling peckish again and stopped at the visitor's information center just outside Bangor. The gentleman at the information center indicated that there was an excellent Pakistani restaurant in town - and that he enjoyed the food. So we went in search. Who would have known that there was a sufficient population in Bangor to support a Pakistani restaurant? We got to Bangor and the restaurant was closed - as luck would have it - probably Ramadan. So we walked around inspecting the alternatives. I liked the look of the small counter-style Mexican restaurant and J2 was thrilled with the Franciscan Friar's Bakehouse, their bread and their beef barley soup.
I ordered the grilled cheese sandwich. The bread was heavenly. Indoor photographs were not allowed so I have none to share but here is what the outside looks like.
By the time we finished our lunch, it was pouring outside so we made our way quickly to the Italian deli around the corner and on the way back to our car. The espresso was delightful there. We got to our car soaked and ate the freshly filled cannolo and a piece of the previously purchased financier and praised the lord for such abundant delicacies.... and then onward.
Next planned stop was Machias (amazingly pronounced "match-eye-us" and not "mak-eye-as" as i thought it would be) where J2 had scoped out what she thought was a café (due to its name). We drove around town and unable to locate the place, got a bit lost - giving me the opportunity to take a few nature pictures - while J2 called the café to get directions. The moss growing on this tree was the first I had seen of its type, but I was soon to learn that it is prevalent throughout Maine.
As it turns out .. the place is a (pretty well stocked and very interesting) wine and cheese shop. The very amicable owner told us that although he had not been there personally, Obadiah's around the corner had excellent reports. So on we went in search of good coffee.
Obadiah's (presumably named after Obadiah of Judaeo-Christian history) is a very funky place - and we love funky places like this!
Looking like the almost familiar run-down antiques dealer shop, but with nice paint. Signs which indicated that hippies were welcome almost made us think that there might be a patch of smoking material out back. In any case they were closed - due to attendance at Jury Duty! We looked around, took a few more pictures and continued in search of the vanishingly elusive coffee. We decided to move on to Machias when, we spotted this place advertising coffee (and donuts). Janet went in to investigate while I waited outside.
Unlucky again - J2 was unimpressed - and all we could do was continue on the long and winding road to our final destination.
We decided to take the very scenic coastal route 1 (although J2 reminds me that "on the way to Lubec we took, 295 to 95 to 9 to 192 to 1 to 192 to 189" - she should know - she drove the whole way there) which winds its way along the "edge" of Maine. We finally arrived in Lubec, and instead of checking in, drove down to the harbor area. Luckily for me, there was a mist covering the water and I was able to get a few nice pictures of this beautiful place.
First an overview of the harbor:
- and it's avian residents.
And a closer look at "Pope's Folly"
The view to the right (which appears closer than it actually was, due to the lens focal length which I was using) is of a lighthouse on the Canadian side. Mulholland Lighthouse in the mist:
After taking these pictures, we decided to go check in and rest up. The Peacock House, which received rave reviews, was a charming and perfect destination with one of the owners - Dennis - waiting for us on the front doorsteps and helping us with our rather hefty luggage up a couple of flights of stairs.
Dennis took us on a tour of the premises .... and then to our room - "The Captain's Cabin". J2 was finally able to make and enjoy a cup of her own ("decent") coffee!
As it turns out .. the place is a (pretty well stocked and very interesting) wine and cheese shop. The very amicable owner told us that although he had not been there personally, Obadiah's around the corner had excellent reports. So on we went in search of good coffee.
Looking like the almost familiar run-down antiques dealer shop, but with nice paint. Signs which indicated that hippies were welcome almost made us think that there might be a patch of smoking material out back. In any case they were closed - due to attendance at Jury Duty! We looked around, took a few more pictures and continued in search of the vanishingly elusive coffee. We decided to move on to Machias when, we spotted this place advertising coffee (and donuts). Janet went in to investigate while I waited outside.
We decided to take the very scenic coastal route 1 (although J2 reminds me that "on the way to Lubec we took, 295 to 95 to 9 to 192 to 1 to 192 to 189" - she should know - she drove the whole way there) which winds its way along the "edge" of Maine. We finally arrived in Lubec, and instead of checking in, drove down to the harbor area. Luckily for me, there was a mist covering the water and I was able to get a few nice pictures of this beautiful place.
First an overview of the harbor:
And a closer look at "Pope's Folly"
Dennis took us on a tour of the premises .... and then to our room - "The Captain's Cabin". J2 was finally able to make and enjoy a cup of her own ("decent") coffee!
Note the storage under the bed.
Since the town closed early, and it was getting late, we went to a local pub for dinner. After being set up to expect Franks and Beans for dinner, I was sorely disappointed to find none in this Maine town! Janet tried the yankee-sounding bean soup which was laced with ... of all things .... cumin (ugh) and I had the safer but rather oversalted grilled steak and a couple of beers. After another exploratory walk which included talking with the very friendly Customs Officer, and walking halfway on the bridge to Canada, we decided to call it a day and headed "home".
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